Dear Sinéad, Siouxsie and Thomas:
Hi there. I've very recently (had her for 3 days now) adopted a 1-year-old female short-haired spayed, recently declawed cat from the adoption center at PetsMart. I wanted an adult cat because then I wouldn't have to deal with litter training, the supposed behavioral problems of 'teen' cats, and also since not many other people adopt adult cats (meaning I'd be saving one from being put to sleep). I've never owned a cat before, and so all my information comes from the Internet and my coworkers. She's really terrific, well behaved, not a spaz at all. However, I do have some questions.

First off, I've noticed that my cat sheds a lot. I mean, a lot. Now I knew she was going to, but I greatly underestimated the amount of shedding. It seems as if she shouldn't even have hair left she's shed so much. I've brushed her every day I've had her, yet still there's more. It's only been 3 days and I've already used up half of one of those lint roller things just cleaning up after her. Is this going to be a constant problem, or perhaps just a seasonal thing and won't last too long?

Second, it seems that all she does when not sleeping is grooming. I know cats groom themselves a lot, but it really seems as if she doesn't do anything else. I mean I can't even get her to play sometimes because she's busy grooming herself. It's ALL she ever does! I'm surprised she hasn't coughed up a hairball or 5 yet.

As I mentioned earlier, the cat is already litter trained. On the first day I got her I just showed her the litter box (it's the kind with the swinging flap door) and so I just opened the door for her and she went on in and has used it ever since. One problem I noticed once (and only once) though is that she didn't really do a good job of erm .... wiping herself .... when she was done. I grabbed some toilet paper and cleaned her up, but since I'll be gone to work during the day this has got me wondering whether it'll be a problem of having cat feces on wherever she decides to sit down as long as she still has a few Klingons on the fantail, so to speak.

My other question is regarding potential intimacy issues with the cat. She seems to really like me, and if I go over to pet her she'll purr and seem happy. However she never, ever comes to me. Again if I come to her she has no problems. She doesn't back away or anything like that, she just doesn't come to me like I've heard most cats will do. When sitting on the couch (I have a cheapo, so I don't care if she's on it) she sits as far from me as possible. She also doesn't seem to want to play, ever. I mean, she'll occasionally go at it with a toy while alone, but if I'm in the room she's reluctant to, and if I want to play with her too, she just stops and resorts to grooming. Since she came from the adoption center and is a year old I have no idea what kind of history she has with people. Any advice to help her get used to me more on top of just sticking w/ it and giving her time?

Lastly, I'm concerned about possible fleas/ticks on the cat. I've noticed an increase in scratching today that she she didn't do previously. She'll also rub her face and neck against the rough corner of my coffee table. I've inspected her in the areas she is scratching for any signs of fleas/ticks but I find nothing. I tried the "rub her fur with a piece of paper underneath" thing to see if any dried blood flakes fell off, but nothing did. As this is the first pet I've owned I'm pretty sure my apartment is/was flea-free, but perhaps she got it from the vet or the animal shelter.

And here's a bonus question: I was under the impression cats liked heights and cat trees, and so I got one before I got the kitty. However, so far the cat refuses to climb on the thing. She won't jump to even the lowest step (even lower than the couch, which is her new favorite resting area). She never jumps on things that are higher than the couch though. Is this just a kitty who doesn't like heights, and should I return the cat tree and get my $30 back? Or is because of the recent declawing, and will she start using it later (it was kind of a pain to set up, so if it'll be used I wanna keep it)

Thanks for any advice you can give me,
Russell

Sinéad: Congratulations on adopting your first cat, Russell, and thank you from all of us rescue kitties for adopting an adult cat from a shelter. You are right in thinking that it's harder for adult cats to find homes -- most people seem to prefer kittens -- and that you did save your sweet girl's life.

Siouxsie: It's great that you have all these questions and want to learn as much as you can to help your new cat companion have a good life with you, and we certainly can give you some answers.

Thomas: First, let's address the shedding. It is totally normal for cats to shed a lot when they've been through a stressful time. We shed like crazy whenever we have to go to the vet or if Mama has to go away and leave us in the care of friends. Mama laughs and says we shed enough fur to make a whole other cat sometimes!

Sinéad: Some cats will shed more than others because they have a soft undercoat as well as the nice, colored fur you see on their bodies. Siouxsie and I have undercoats, and we tend to shed our undercoat fur more often than our outer fur.

Siouxsie: The shedding will abate after a while, but until then, you're doing the right thing by brushing your cat daily. Your brushing is probably what's prevented her from getting hairballs as a result of all the grooming she's doing.

Thomas: You are, however, going to have to deal with the fact that as a cat owner, you will always have some fur on your furniture or clothing. Mama doesn't really bother with the fur removal rollers unless we jump on a Job Interview Suit, whatever that is. Hee hee hee!

Sinéad: One thing you can do is place a throw or other small blanket in places where your cat likes to sit. For example, Mama has some fleece throws (small blankets) that she folds up and puts on the end of the couch where I like to sleep. That way, most of the fur gets on the fleece throw, which she can wash much more easily than she can clean the couch cushions. And fleece is so soft and warm! *purrrrrrrrrrrrrr*

Siouxsie: You mentioned that your cat is grooming a lot. This is what animal psychologists call a "displacement behavior." In other words, your cat is feeling stress and anxiety, and she is seeking to comfort herself through her grooming. This can become a problem if your cat starts to groom so much that she pulls her fur out. If you start seeing bald spots on your cat's tummy or the inside of her rear legs, or in other places where you see her licking and grooming a lot, that means your cat is in a state of severe anxiety or has some sort of skin irritation that is causing her to itch.

Thomas: She may be itchy if she's having an allergic reaction to something in your house. Cats are very sensitive to chemicals, and if you're using scented cat litter or laundry detergent/dryer sheets, or any type of commercial air fresheners, those could be causing her skin to itch.

Sinéad: We suspect that she's grooming more because of anxiety than allergies, because of the general picture you're painting of her symptoms. However, we still encourage you to use unscented cat litter or laundry detergent if at all possible.

Siouxsie: Her "Klingons on the fantail" problem is also probably due to stress and to changes in her diet. Cats' digestive systems take a while to adjust to changes in their diets. Feeding a new food can cause constipation or diarrhea, depending on the cat, and may also cause their stools to smell quite bad if the food doesn't agree with them.

Thomas: We recommend that when you clean the feces and urine clumps (if you're using clumping litter) out of the litterbox -- which you should do at least once a day -- you note whether her stools look solid or if they're runny or too soft. As a cat owner, you will want to get an idea of your cat's regular urine and fecal output, because this is a very efficient way to monitor your cat's health.

Sinéad: We also recommend that you feed your cat the highest-quality food you can afford. The higher-quality foods (the kind you buy in pet stores and the like) tend to have more nutritional value, fewer artificial chemicals and preservatives, and better-quality meats. Good-quality food and regular preventive vet care are the two most important things you can give your cat -- aside from love and adoration, of course -- to ensure that you can spend many happy years together.

Siouxsie: Regarding the intimacy issue, I think you are probably just going to have to give her the time to adjust. As she gets used to you and begins to realize that you're safe, she will gradually begin to approach you for affection and tenderness. It sounds like your cat is kind of shy, and she's still anxious about being in a new home. Her behavior is perfectly normal for a shy cat in new circumstances.

Thomas: When Mama first brought me home, it took days before I'd even come out of my cat carrier when she was in the room with me. I was really scared, and I was still in shock from the trauma I'd been through -- being sent to the shelter, getting sick, going to a new home and getting beaten up by the other cats, and then being sent back to the shelter. Mama just had to be patient with me ... and she gave me a little extra help, too, which we'll talk about a bit later.

Sinéad: We don't think you have to worry too much about fleas at this point. Your cat is probably scratching more than usual because she's shedding a lot, and all that extra fur next to her skin is making her itchy. Again, allergies can be a cause of scratching, but we think it's more likely due to fur all over the place.

Siouxsie: The behavior of rubbing her face and neck against your coffee table is less about being itchy than it is about marking her territory. Cats have scent glands in their faces -- on their cheeks, in the place in front of their ears where the fur is thin, and so on -- and they use these glands to mark a territory as belonging to them.

Thomas: The fact that she's using her head to mark, rather than the scent glands by her tail, is a good sign. Cats mark with the glands by their tail when they feel they're competing for a territory, and they tend to use their heads to mark when they feel comfortable in the knowledge that this place belongs to them.

Sinéad: We suspect that your cat will begin using the cat tree once she gets more comfortable in her new home. Cats that are anxious tend to keep low and move around the edges of a space, in order to keep themselves better hidden and able to react to anything that would threaten them. As long as the cat tree is sturdy enough and heavy enough that she won't knock it over by jumping on it, she will find it and use it eventually.

Siouxsie: She is declawed, though, so she won't climb the thing. If she has to climb to get to a comfortable part of the cat tree, she won't be able to do so. However, if she can hop up onto various perches, and hop back down safely, she'll enjoy the cat tree.

Thomas: You can tempt her to the cat tree by rubbing some catnip on it and maybe putting a couple of tablespoons of catnip in one of the "sitting areas" on the cat tree. Also, if you put the cat tree in a sunny spot that allows her to look outside, she'll enjoy the opportunity to rest in a drop of sunlight now and then.

Sinéad: So now that we've answered your questions about your new kitty, let us give you some advice to help her adjust and strengthen your relationship with her.

Siouxsie: First of all, you're going to need to find a veterinarian. Your veterinarian is the second most important person in your cat's life, so it's worth it to look around and find one you trust and like. Ask coworkers or friends (especially friends who have happy, healthy cats) who their vet is, and ask what they like about their vet.

Thomas: You're going to want a vet who not only is good at his or her job, but who is a good listener and who respects you and your understanding of your cat. He or she should be willing to discuss things like vaccinations or treatments of any illnesses or injuries without demanding that you must do this or that. You'll want your vet clinic to be clean, with staff members (receptionists, techs, other vets, etc.) who are professional and kind, and who love animals.

Sinéad: When you find a veterinarian you want to try, call that clinic to see if they're taking new patients, and schedule a "well cat" examination. The vet will give your kitty a physical exam and discuss any preventive health care, such as vaccinations, that your cat will need.

Siouxsie: Bring your cat's health and vaccination records with you. You probably got these when you adopted your cat. If not, ask the rescue group you adopted the cat from if they will give you photocopies of any health and vaccination records they have on your cat. That way, your cat will not be overvaccinated (if she's already had her rabies and distemper shots, for example, she won't need those for at least a year). Also, bring a fecal sample with you so your vet can check for parasites. She probably doesn't have any, but it's always best to be on the safe side.

Thomas: And don't be shy about changing vets if you don't like the vet you've seen. Many clinics have more than one vet on staff, so you can ask to see another vet the next time you take your cat in, or you can continue shopping around until you find a vet you can maintain a good relationship with. Remember, your cat can live to be 17 or older, so you may be dealing with your vet for a long time!

Sinéad: Second, get some books about cat care. There are a number of very good books on the market, including Think Like A Cat: How to Raise A Well-Adjusted Cat, Not A Sour Puss by Pam Johnson-Bennett, and CatSmart: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding, Caring for, and Living With Your Cat by Myrna Milani, DVM. In addition, Natural Cat Care by Dr. Bruce Fogle, a very basic and very general introduction to holistic care techniques used to treat a variety of cat ailments, can help you to learn more about some new approaches to cat medicine. Check out our recommended reading list to see some more books on cat care.

Siouxsie: The Internet offers a number of good resources on cat care. The most comprehensive of these is the about.com cats forum. This site has articles about every conceivable cat-related issue, and links to hundreds of other cat-related websites.

Thomas: And of course, you can always check out the Paws and Effect archives. We've been writing this column for almost three years now, and we've answered a lot of behavior- and health-related questions in that time.

Sinéad: There's one natural remedy that you can use to help your kitty recover from the shock of her transition. And it's good for humans, too. This stuff is called Bach Rescue Remedy. It's a flower essence (a holistic remedy, sold over-the-counter) and is available at most health food stores. It's great for treating physical and emotional shock, and that's a lot of what your kitty is going through right now.

Siouxsie: It's really easy to give your cat Rescue Remedy, too. Just put one or two drops on your finger and pet her head and ears. The remedy will absorb through her skin and will help her feel calmer and safer.

Thomas: Just a quick heads-up: Rescue Remedy is preserved in an alcohol base. This is generally not a problem, but if it gets rubbed into an open wound, it will cause discomfort. Also, if you have any particular issues with alcohol, you may want to pass on this treatment. We know plenty of recovering alcoholics who keep Rescue Remedy in their house (it comes in a 20ml/0.7-ounce bottle), and even use it occasionally, without having relapses. But just in case the alcohol thing is a problem for you, either because of past history or religious beliefs, we figured we ought to warn you. Mama gave me Rescue Remedy to help me recover from my shock, and it really did help!

Sinéad: Feliway, a feline pheromone analogue, help cats who are anxious or scared. It's generally used for cats that are urine marking inappropriately, but we can tell you from experience that the reason it helps stop urine marking is because it treats the anxiety that is at the root of most bad feline bathroom behavior.

Siouxsie: We don't think you need to go all the way to Feliway unless your cat is still overgrooming and hiding and acting scared after a couple of months. Then the Feliway -- which comes in a diffuser and a spray -- will help relieve her anxiety and make her feel more at home. Feliway is available through vets, at some pet stores, and through online sources such as CatFaeries and Drs. Foster & Smith.

Thomas: Good luck, Russell. We hope we've helped you and your cat get a great start on your new lives together. Please feel free to write back and let us know how things are going, or if we can answer any other questions for you.

Got a question? Need some advice? E-mail us at advice@paws-and-effect.com. None of the material in this column is meant to be a substitute for regular veterinary care.