I hope you’ll forgive me for bringing this week’s chapter to you late. It’s just so traumatic … I have all I can do not to break down in hairball-horking, wretched, tearful terror when I think about it. So I’m going to make this as short as I can. Thomas is here grooming me and whispering sweet purr-songs in my ear. But it’s still hard. *sniffle*

So, as you recall, last week I told you about the hole I licked into my tummy because I was so itchy, and the shame I had to endure while wearing that giant plastic cone thing around my head. And worse yet, Doctor Sarah threatened that the hole might not heal without further intervention.

I didn’t know what that meant at the time, of course. But what I did know is that every time I tried to do anything, that *hissss-spit-grooooowwwwl*ing Cone of Shame made it just about impossible. And to make matters worse, Mama was holding me down, forcing my mouth open, and pushing some kind of nasty, bitter thing so far back in my mouth that I had to swallow it! I couldn’t have spit the darn thing out even if I’d wanted to!

“What have I done to deserve such abuse?” I cried to the Cat Gods. “I’ve been a good kitty, so why is Mama being so horribly mean to me?”

They greeted my entreaties with a cold silence.

Oh, of course, Thomas tried to make me feel better, but he was starting to get pretty perturbed too: every time he tried to groom my ears, that darn collar got in the way! Once he even swatted me because the cone twisted his whiskers the wrong way. And if you’re a cat, you know just how awful it feels to get your whiskers twisted the wrong way!

(I’ve seen Mama cussing and letting her eyes leak when she hits her Funny Bone, and I imagine that when you humans hit your Funny Bone, it feels a lot like whisker-twisting feels to us.)

Anyway … Mama did her best to console me, too. She even took the Cone of Shame off me when she was awake and in the house with us. “As long as I’m here and I can make sure you don’t lick and nibble at your tummy, you can go cone-less,” she told me. “But I’m afraid I have to put it back on you when it’s time for me to go to work or go to sleep.”

And then, a few days later, Mama called … she called … *sniffle* she called the vet and said the hole in my tummy hadn’t gotten any smaller. And then I heard her say … *sniffle* … “So I’ll be bringing her in for that appointment we set up.”

Then she grabbed me before I could even figure out what was going on, and … and … *choke* … shoved me into that awful portable … portable prison!

I cried and cried, and wailed and wailed! I screamed my despair as loudly as I could! I even made a big, stinky mess in my prison box! But did Mama stop and take me back home? NooOOOOoo!

How could the person I used to love and trust so much commit such hateful atrocities against a tiny, helpless, three-pound slip of a kitten who had done nothing but give her purrs and head-bonks and whisker-tickles?

Then we arrived at the gulag. The barking and howling of gigantic dogs in the back room made me so scared I wet my crate again! But Mama took me out and held me gently as we waited in the exam room for Doctor Sarah. I was trembling so hard I could barely breathe. My paw pads were oozing sweat and my heart was racing so fast I felt light-headed and woozy.

When Doctor Sarah finally came in, Mama had to unhitch me, claw by claw, from her sweater in order to set me down on the table.  “Poor thing, she’s so scared she’s shivering,” Mama said.

“I’m sorry, sweetheart,” Doctor Sarah said. “I know this is hard, huh?”

“Meep?” I managed to say.

“What a good, brave girl,” Mama said as Sarah lifted me up to look at my belly.

“Well, I was afraid of this,” Sarah said. “I’m going to have to cut the edges of that wound and stitch them back together. I’m sorry, little Dahlia.” She stroked my head.

“So when should we do it?” Mama asked.

“I’d set aside a few minutes today because I suspected this would happen. So if you want to leave her here, you can pick her up on the way home this afternoon.”

“Okay. I didn’t feed her this morning because I noticed the wound wasn’t closing and I thought you might say that. I don’t want her running around the farm with an open wound that isn’t healing.”

Saddest. Kitty. Ever.

Mama gave me a hug and kiss. “I’ll be back for you later, Dahlia, I promise,” she said. “You be good.”

And once again, I was forcibly removed into the bowels of the clinic where I awaited my fate, hunched in the back of my cage and shaking with terror, as the bloodthirsty baying of dogs and the screeches of half-feral barn cats swirled around me.

That’s … that’s the last thing I remember *sniffle* before Mama came to take me home.

Now I’m going to curl up in a tiny little ball and *sniffle* cry for a while until … until Mama gets home!

See the rest of the story | Next chapter >

Dear Most Esteemed and Knowledgeable Kitties:

My kitty is 7 years old and weighs 32 pounds (14.5 kg). Recently he had some pain in his back leg. I took him to the vet, who thought he pulled a disc in his back or had a thrombus. Tests for both of these conditions were negative. The vet gave him pain medicine and sent him home. Now my cat acts like he doesn’t know us — and doesn’t even know his name! He doesn’t eat or drink much now, and it seems like he lost the will to live. What can I do to help him feel better? Please help my big kitty.

~ Amanda

Siouxsie: The first thing you need to do is call your vet. Your cat may be having a reaction to the pain medication he’s taking.

Thomas: Once you’ve got the medication issue straightened out, you’ll need to get to the core of your cat’s problem and the reason why he may have hurt himself: your cat is morbidly obese.

Dahlia: Unless your cat is a Maine Coon or Norwegian Forest cat, he should weigh between 8 and 12 pounds (3.5 to 5.5 kg). And even Maine Coons and Norwegian Forest Cats rarely weigh more than 20 pounds (9 kg).

Siouxsie: We know that 32 pounds may not sound like a lot to a human being. But let’s put this in perspective.

Thomas: Let’s say you’re a 5-foot, 5-inch (165 cm) woman of average build. A healthy weight range for you would be between 130 and 145 pounds (60 to 66 kg).

Dahlia: Now, imagine this same woman weighing 400 pounds (181 kg). That’s how obese your cat is!

Siouxsie: Morbid obesity is just as dangerous for cats as it is for people. Obesity in cats leads to diabetes, heart disease, high blood pressure, and all the risks of high blood pressure including blindness, strokes, and kidney failure.

Thomas: And the huge stresses all that weight puts on your cat’s body drastically increases his risk of developing arthritis and injuries to the knees and hips.

Dahlia: To remedy your cat’s problems once and for all, you absolutely must get him down to a healthy weight!

Siouxsie: And as with humans, the only way you’re going to be able to make your cat’s weight loss permanent is to change his entire lifestyle. You’ll need to modify his diet (and cut out any snacks and treats you’re giving him) and give him more exercise.

Thomas: If your cat were only a couple of pounds overweight, we’d say you could probably manage this yourself, but because your cat is so drastically obese and obviously unhealthy enough to require vet care for a potentially fatal problem, you’ll need to get your cat a full veterinary workup before you begin.

Dahlia: Your vet will tell you how much exercise your cat can tolerate and give you guidance about how to adjust his diet. It’s very important that you follow your vet’s instructions in order to avoid further injury or aggravation of any underlying health problems such as diabetes or heart disease.

Siouxsie: You and your vet can create a meal and exercise plan that will help your cat lose weight in a gradual, safe and healthy way. Your vet might also suggest you work with a veterinary nutritionist for specialized diet information.

Thomas: This post on The Pet Site has some more information on how to go about helping your cat lose weight. But it also says, just like we said, that your cat absolutely must have a complete physical exam including blood tests and urine tests to rule out underlying diseases.

Dahlia: So, Amanda, once your beautiful big boy recovers from his injury, please talk to your vet and get him started on a weight loss program. If you get him healthy, you’ll be able to enjoy his company for many more years!

Dear Most Esteemed and Knowledgeable Kitties:

I had a 9-year-old Russian Blue mix. He was an outside cat due to the fact that even though he was neutered, he still sprayed. I brought him in the house last night in a small kennel because the weather has been so bad. He was fine when I put him in. I picked him up and he seemed normal. But this morning when I went to put him back out, I found he had died during the night. He was laying as if he just died in his sleep. I knew he was getting older for a cat, especially since he was an outside cat, but I’m worried because was in a severe cat fight three weeks ago and I’m afraid he might have gotten rabies. There have been reports of rabies in my county, including a cat about three miles away. When I took him to the vet for care because the wounds on his shoulder abscessed, he was given antibiotic shots and updated on his immunizations (he had lapsed on his rabies shot, even though they told me last time I was there that he was up to date). Would my cat have shown signs of rabies if that is what killed him? I’m now afraid that perhaps whatever bit him gave him rabies and it killed him, therefore exposing my family. Am I worrying over nothing? His behavior had been 100% normal all the way up to last night when I put him in his kennel. Should I mention this to the vet? We buried the cat today, but should we have gotten him tested for rabies? I think it is odd he had this fight so close to his death.

~ Shelby

Siouxsie: Well, Shelby, our research indicates that even if your cat was rabid, it’s highly unlikely that your family could have contracted the disease. But the best way to set your mind at ease is to call your veterinarian and ask him or her if it’s possible your cat might have been rabid. A professional’s opinion is a lot more authoritative than anything we could tell you here.

Thomas: Your question does give us a chance to share information about rabies, not only with you but with the rest of our readers.

Dahlia: This information comes from the Cat Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook, which was written by three veterinarians and one human doctor.

Siouxsie: Rabies is a fatal disease that is found in nearly all warm-blooded animals. It is caused by a virus that spreads up the nervous system from an infected bite and eventually causes encephalitis, or swelling in the brain.

Thomas: In North America, rabies is typically carried by skunks, raccoons, foxes, coyotes, and bats.

Dahlia: Rabies is caused by a virus which is found in the saliva of infected animals and is usually transmitted by a bite. However, saliva on an open wound or mucous membrane such as the inside of the nose or mouth can also constitute exposure to rabies.

Siouxsie: The incubation period in cats can be anywhere from nine days to one year, but usually signs appear within 2 to 3 weeks of infection.

Thomas: Because the virus travels to the brain along nerve networks, the farther the bite is from the brain, the longer the period of incubation. But the virus can be in the saliva glands within a week after infection, so animals can be contagious before they show signs of rabies — however, the writers of the Cat Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook do point out that this is unusual.

A cat can carry the rabies virus for weeks before the symptoms of the disease become obvious

Siouxsie: But then an affected cat becomes withdrawn and starts staring off into space. They avoid light and could hide and die without ever being found.

Thomas: There are two forms of rabies-induced encephalitis: the furious form and the paralytic or “dumb” form. A rabid cat may show signs of one or both. The furious, or “mad dog” form is far more common. It lasts two to four days, in which the infected cat suddenly attacks other animals or people around the face and neck. Soon the cat develops muscle twitching, tremors, staggering, lack of coordination, and violent convulsions.

A rabid cats with typical clinical signs of encephalitis: Seizures, salivation, and pupil dilatation.

Siouxsie: If you or your cat are bitten by an animal of unknown rabies status, it’s crucial to vigorously cleanse all wounds and scratches. Wash them thoroughly with soap and water. Studies in animals show that prompt wound cleaning greatly reduces the risk of rabies. A wound from a possibly rabies-infected animal should not be stitched shut.

Thomas: A previously vaccinated cat that is bitten by an animal of unknown rabies status is given a booster shot, which should happen as soon as possible after exposure. The cat should then be keep confined indoors at home for 45 days. Even outdoor cats known to be up to date on their vaccinations should be kept indoors under observation for 10 days.

Dahlia: An unvaccinated cat bitten by a potentially rabid animal must either be euthanized or placed under strict quarantine without direct handling by humans or contact with other animals for six months. The cat is then vaccinated one month before he is released. If this seems harsh, remember that it could have been prevented if the owner had been responsible about the cat’s vaccinations.

Siouxsie: Different states have their own quarantine and vaccination regulations for cats that have been exposed to rabies, so be sure to check your local laws if you find yourself in this unfortunate situation.

Thomas: There is no effective treatment for rabies. Be sure your cat is properly vaccinated against the disease, under the supervision of a veterinarian.

Dahlia: We know there are a lot of people who vaccinate their own animals in order to save money and we’re not saying that it’s totally irresponsible to do this. However, in the case of rabies vaccinations, it’s crucial that they be done properly. And your vet can provide you with legal proof that your cat was vaccinated, should the need arise.

Siouxsie: Preventive rabies vaccinations are available for humans at a high risk of contracting the disease, including veterinarians, animal handlers, cave explorers, and lab workers.

Thomas: We suspect people who regularly work with feral cat colonies would also fall in this high-risk group.

Dahlia: Remember, the professionals have the last word about this! If your veterinarian or your physician says something different than what we’ve shared here, go with the medical professionals’ opinions. They’ve got all the latest information and years of professional training — and we’re just cats who are trying to help you understand health concerns and have the best possible relationship with your feline companion.

Dear Most Esteemed and Knowledgeable Kitties:

My husband insists on pulling our 15-year-old tabby’s tail. He says he read that cats like this type of thing. There doesn’t seem to be any ill effect from his actions, but because our cat is a senior now and we love her so much and I feel this is a rather violent act, could you offer advice regarding the damage tail pulling can do, not to mention the emotional insult to the cat? My husband loves Pepi, treats her like a princess otherwise – however insists on his daily tail pulling exercise. HELP!

~ Katie

Siouxsie: Well, Katie, tail pulling is very high on our Not Recommended list. And here’s why.

Thomas: Let’s start out with a quick lesson on the anatomy of the cat’s spine, tail, and spinal cord.

A cat's skeleton. The red arrow points to the fifth lumbar vertebra, which is where the spinal cord ends. Image courtesy of Free Pictures of Kittens and Cats.

Dahlia: A cat’s spine has more than 50 bones: seven cervical (neck) vertebrae, 13 thoracic (mid-back) vertebrae, seven lumbar (lower back) vertebrae, three sacral (hip) bones that fuse into one bone mass that connects to the cat’s tail, which has 21 to 23 bones.

Siouxsie: The spinal cord, the bundle of nerves that sends messages from the brain to the rest of the body, ends at the fifth lumbar vertebra.

Thomas: Nerves that control the back legs, tail, bladder, bowels, and other important functions, branch out from the end of the spinal cord. If these nerves are stretched too much, they can lose their ability to carry signals from the brain.

Dahlia: So, although some cats do enjoy having their tails gently tugged as part of their daily affection routine, hard tail pulling cat result in nerve trauma that leads to paralysis.

Siouxsie: That being said, in a younger adult cat you’d have to yank pretty hard to cause such injury. But as cats age, they start losing muscle mass around their hips, legs, and tail head (where the tail joins the body). Because of this, we’d think a senior cat would be much more likely to be hurt by a tail-tug that might have been fine when she was younger.

Thomas: Kittens, of course, should never have their tails pulled. They’re far too small and fragile for this kind of treatment and could be severely and permanently injured!

Dahlia: As cats age, many tend to develop arthritis; as a result, they may be sore around the hips and tail head, especially when they first get up from a nap. That’s part of the reason Siouxsie’s so grumpy all the time …

Siouxsie: My claws don’t bother me, and it would do you well to remember that, you little brat! Don’t you “Aunt Siouxsie, Aunt Siouxsie” me the next time you want a bedtime story! Besides, I get special treats that make my hips feel better, and you don’t! Humph.

Thomas: Anyway … tail pulling will probably make  an arthritic cat’s pain worse.

Dahlia: Some cats enjoy having their tails gently stroked as part of a petting routine. I particularly love long, slow strokes from the top of my head to the end of my tail.

Siouxsie: Katie, you didn’t tell us how Pepi reacts when your husband pulls her tail. If she turns around and snaps at him, or if she growls or runs away when he’s done, that’s a pretty clear indication that she doesn’t like it or it bothers her.

Thomas: But even if Pepi doesn’t show obvious signs of distress, we strongly recommend against tail pulling on any cat, of any age.

Dahlia: Well, if you’re an animal chiropractor who specializes in working with cats, you can probably get away with it. But no lay person should ever pull a cat’s tail.